The most interesting feature on the Pan American Highway are these small doll houses by the road side. At times, they take the form of a small house of bricks, no larger than a kennel. Plastic flowers dance from side to side and the occasional mini Chilean flag flutters wildly as we roar past. These are memorials to those killed in road accidents. Inside, inscriptions of the names of those killed adorn the tiny walls. Strangers to us, they were once a brother, sister or father perhaps to a family.

We spent last night in the small, tidy town of Ovalle. Today, we drove through La Serena, a gorgeous, 'happening' beach resort. Chile, so far, has exceeded expectations - a rich, historical and varied land. Even as I write this in the dusty courtyard of a residencial guesthouse in Copiaipo, I am marvelling at the rugged beauty of the desert surrounding us.

Welcome to the Atacama, the sign reads. Indeed. Tomorrrow, we will be arranging for transport and probably doing a recce to a nearby refuge in the mountains. We may be out of touch of while. we luck, we'll be going for Ojos Del Salado's summit in about 5 days' time.

It's hot here and the shower calls. Ciao.