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5:30pm Singapore time.  I just spoke with Rozani and David by Thuruya Satellite phone.  They have had a hard 7 hour acclimatisation climb up a nearby peak to an elevation just under 6000m.  Both climbers sounded tired but  in good spirits.  Rozani said the entire day was a battle with the wind.  Near the summit they estimate the wind speed was gusting 80 – 90  km/hr.  Climbing in this type of wind is enourmously energy sapping.

The guys are now back safely in the tent’s at advance camp and are  preparing dinner of couscous.  They will have burnt 6000 – 8000 calories today and be dehydrated.  It is essential they eat well and drink plenty of liquid to allow their bodies to recover from the exertion.  All the water they drink has to be tediously melted from ice and snow.  A very slow process which requires patience and discipline, especially when you are exhausted.  It can typically take around one hour to prepare 1 – 2 litres  at high altitudes.

Tomorrow they plan an active rest day, and will make a trip back down to basecamp to pick up some supplies.  Most importantly they are very short of matches.  They have 8 remaining only!  No matches is a serious situation as it means they cannot light their stove to cook and melt snow to drink.

In summary the guys seem to be acclimatised well, in great spirits and in a very good position to make an attempt on the Dragons Tooth in two days time.  They need to drink, rest and prepare well over the next 24 hours to ensure they are ready to go for it Tuesday morning when the time comes.

Axe signing out on behalf of David Lim





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