Blue Cheese and Newspapers

Dear Friends,

It’s been a blustery day, full of sunshine, snow showers and hope. Up high Rozani and Terry La France (one of the non-guided climbers on the USA team) made a foray uphill on the North Ridge. The plan was to reach Camp 5, a tough prospect at 7,900m. The actual vertical distance needed to be covered from the North Col (7,000m) is, by comparison 50% farther than the equivalent day from the Lhotse Face camp to South Col on the regular route on the Nepal side. Additionally, no bottled oxygen is usually used. But hey, this is the North side and things are a bit different here. Harder. Farther. Colder. Windier.

Rozani and Terry reached 7,300m thereabouts before turning back in the face of strong, cold winds. Both are back safely at the Col now.

Down here, I received by goodie bag from home, courtesy of our Official Support Trek. Many thanks! What’s in it some of you may ask – well, batteries for TS’s hearing aids, blue cheeses (now a bit green), sticks of smoked cheese and nuts for nibbling up high, letters from my girlfriend Maureen – yet to be opened, medicines for our coughs especially, a copy of The Straits Times – (Singapore’s major English language broadsheet). It also happens to be printed by one of major supporters, Singapore Press Holdings. Dated or not, this was too good to resist (see photo attached) after 5 weeks from home. Needless to say, nothing much happening to draw us away from the action and views here – unless you are a die-hard TV football fanatic.

Needless to say, Maureen’s letters will keep me a bit warmer tonight. That’s all for today, folks.

Dave, signing off.

SPONSOR Feature

LEE FOUNDATION:
has traditionally assisted charities, sporting and educational events and causes. We thank the Foundation for supporting this major sporting event with a cash contribution.

Support Trek Arrives!

Dear Friends,

Highlight of today was the visit of our first Singaporean visitors – our Official Support Trek. 9 members led by Kelvin Chen popped by with truck in the late morning and spent a few hours here. They’ll be back tomorrow from their Rongbuk Monastery camp (13km away) for some hiking at and above basecamp. All appeared in good health and spirits. Quite sporting of them to do the 4 day trek – appproach. We’re delighted with the goodie packs brought by them for us. These included spare batteries for TS’s hearing aids, Singapore snacks, letters, photos etc. from loved ones. Ah – a whiff of home!

Today, Rozani is climbing up to the North Col. Weather over here is cloudy with basecamp mostly in the sun. Winds higher up are moderate. If this prevail tomorrow, Rozani may be up to setting a supplementary oxygen-free record for Singapore climbers, climbing to or near to 7900m without using the aid of bottled oxygen – we’ll see what happens tomorrow.

Down here, we’ve been talking tactics and timings. There is a possibility that we’ll be climbing in 2 separate teams for the summit owing to our different acclimatisation levels, with summit days being between May 16 – 21.

On a sobering note, last night, we discussed the matter of dead bodies. Many of the American climbers on Eric Simonson’s teams have been over this ground before and the sighting and climbing around bodies has happened. We know that there are at least three recent bodies from 1996 and 1998 on the actual summit route – 3 Ladakhis who died in the May 10 -11 storm, also Francis Arsentiev, whose body is frozen into the section below the First Step, about 4 hours above Camp 6. These people were once a son, a daughter, wife to a family. If they are too affixed/iced-up to the mountain to be removed with respect and committed to the mountain we need to maintain respect for their lives and deaths by moving with prudence and caution around their remains.

From Rongbuk BC,
David

Support trek group at basecamp rongbuk chatting with members Gil and David (far left).
Pic: by Beng Cheong on the IXUS

David Lim wears a Toe-Off orthotic on his right foot.

CAMP SCANDINAVIA

The expedition’s sole ‘foreign’ sponsor, Camp is a Swedish firm specialising in orthotics manufacture. Expedition leader David Lim wears a Toe-Off orthotic to stabilise his disabled right ankle when he’s not climbing mountains. The kevlar, carbon fibre and glass fibre composite orthotic delivers a springboard action and helps encourage a natural gait for people with an active lifestyle. Camp is proud to associate itself with this Expedition.
http://www.campscandinavia.se

Read Kelvin’s report on his visit to the Basecamp!

Another Day at Basecamp

Dear Friends,
Many thanks for your continued support, warm emails – especially from old friends : Chuck Demarest, Tim Brewton, Christine and Alan, BK Lim and family.

Today, its snowy over Everest and Rozani is plugging his way up to ABC. At basecamp, we’ve been troubleshooting a malfunctioning solar panel and taking some additional video footage. Health: Gil and my throats have been improving although persistent dry coughs are nagging. The situation is, however, not as bad as in 1998 when , by this stage, I had already sustained a strained intercostal muscle or torn cartilage. Beng Cheong’s upper respiratory tract isn’t improving and with each passing day, we fear for his chances of a summit bid.

The current plan is to go for the top in mid May with a summit day being somewhere (health and weather permitting) between May 18 – 21. Should Beng not be able to complete his 7,000m acclimatisation cycle in the next week or so, he won’t be joining us for the summit bid as described, There is a slim chance he might be able to go it alone with a sherpa in support for a late-May summit shot but this is just speculation at the moment. If his condition persists, it will inadvisable for him to go higher and the expedition might be over for him.

A word about our camp. Owing to various financial reasons, we were unable to have our 100% independent expedition this time round. I’m working with my old friend Eric Simonson to share basecamp resources as well as resources up on the hill. This can be a constraint at times. However, on the upside, getting to hang with his Malllory +Irvine Search team is an eyeopener. So far, we’ve enjoyed the wisdom, humour and company of such illustrious professional climbers such as Dave Hahn, Brent Okita, Andy Politz, Tap Richards, Jake ‘ Dai’ Norton and John Race. Many of these were also on Eric’s 1999 expedition which found the remains of legendary British climber George Mallory. The findings helped answer old questions as well as raise new possibilities as to whether or not the pair did climb Everest in 1924.

Detailed reports on this year’s findings to can be found on Eric’s IMG 8000 website at http://www.mountainguides.com
David

DDB WORLDWIDE COMMUNICATIONS:

DDB is a leading international advertising and communications agency. They have been providing the team with pro bono advertising, layout and design services. Many thanks to Greg, Lennard, Scott and the whole DDB team. http://www.ddb.com.sg

Chickens and Altitude

Dear Friends,

Special hellos to Greg Taucher and the DDB team for the recent email.

Over here, the weather has been warming up a bit although this has been accompanied by snow showers at night and in the day at Basecamp Rongbuk. As a reminder of the harsh conditions and risks of high altitude travel, we had yet another case of a sick climber/ trekker from Scotland who needed to go down late last night. However, our Tibetan jeep driver just had had a 10 hour drive up from Tingri and refused to go back out in the dark again. So the invalid was kept on oxygen for a while. We understand he finally went down in the wee hours of the morning.

Many expeditions come to the north side without contracting for a jeep of their own. Certainly, the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) camp keeps a standby jeep at all times but when it is away for any reason, emergency evacuations are delayed. This is largely because few of the 20-odd expeditions here bother with or can afford their own jeep for which the CMA charges a princely sum of USD$6,000. What then happens is that expeditions which do have a jeep of their own get numerous requests from lesser financed expeditions for use of their vehicle. Ironically, many of these expeditions without jeeps of their own are commercially organised ones; charging strangers large sums of money for a shot at Everest in exchange for providing the logistics of the climb. The upshot of these developments is: caveat emptor. On Everest, you normally get what you pay for.

The highlight of last night here in the dining tent was the appearance of fried chicken. Personally, this is the first fresh chicken to pass my lips in one month. It’s also interesting to note how we’ve been sleeping over rocks, sand and ice for over a month – such is the lot of the expedition climber!

On a sadder note, this morning , we heard of the death of Babu Chiri Sherpa on the south side ( Nepal ) of the mountain. Apparently, he had been taking pictures near the relatively safe ground of Advance Base Camp when he fell into a crevasse and was killed. His body was brought down to Basecamp and flown to Kathmandu shortly afterwards. Babu was an enormously strong climber who had made headlines through his record breaking speed climbs of Everest as well being the first person to spend the night on the summit of Mt Everest. My personal memories of him is that of an extremely pleasant fellow who was only to happy to offer tea whenever I was descending/returning to my Everest basecamp in 1998. His camp was situated 50m from ours and his cheery smile was always welcome. Our condolences to his friends and family.

Rozani has gone up to Advance Basecamp today with the company of an American climber, with a view of completing his 7,000m acclimatisation cycle. Beng Cheong, who was supposed to have also been on this rotation is still feeling under the weather and has remained at Basecamp. The uneven acclimatisation levels of our team will mean some adjustments in our summit climbs. There may be a possibility that we might not be able to climb in a team of four as originally planned. Early days yet.
Ciao,
David

Hello Everyone,

Today is rest day at base camp. Nothing significant is happening right now. Everybody is relaxing or charging up energy for the next saga.

Tomorrow, Rozani and Terry (an American climber) MIGHT be going up to North Col. This is a big MAYBE – because if Terry is not going up, Rozani won’t be allowed to venture up alone. Climbing alone is not done.

Beng Cheong’s health has not been improving since he returned to Base Camp. The team is now debating what to do with him.

A video filming session was scheduled with the various members of the expedition – WTS (to explain the innards of power supply, satellite communications, and the operations of Apple Powerbooks), Rozani & Gil (to give their reports on the various aspects of the expedition so far). Gil gave his comments in both English and Portugese.

Ting Sern

PR COMMUNICATIONS:

Thanks to Fatoma and her team, the expedition’s major public events and PR exercises have gone smoothly and have also been fun events!

ing Sern’s Life at Basecamp

Basecamp can be both boring and exciting, depending on events that happen here.

Firstly, what are my routine jobs (the boring ones)?

a) Set up the power supply unit for all the electronic equipment. Since all computers (Apple Powerbooks) and satellite communications equipment (Nera Worldphone & Ericsson R190 ACeS) depend on electrical power, this will the most important job for me. We generate electricity from solar energy (the cleanest, non polluting source) by using solar panels. The solar panels we use are a pair of UNISOLAR 30 watts foldable panels, capable of giving a minimum output of 30 watts at 12 volts. I have measured power output as high as 2.9 amps at 25.6 volts (thereby exceeding the manufacturer’s specifications). We can’t feed the power output from the solar panels directly into electronic equipment since the power will not be constant, but fluctuate – depending on the quality of the sunlight at any given instance. A solar “charge controller” (ProStar 30) is used to control the power of the solar panels, to charge a reserve bank of sealed lead acid batteries (SLAB), and to regulate the quality of the electrical output from the system. We use two 7AH (amp hour) SLABs and one 2.6 AH SLAB. The number of SLABs that we can carry depends on the total weight we are prepared to carry, since SLAB are not light. The ProStar 30 is capable of delivering 30 amps at 12Volts sustained – and this has been confirmed in tests conducted by me in Singapore.

b) Set up the computers for Satcoms (satellite communications) operations. This is rather technical – but I shall explain the basics here. We use 2 forms of SATCOMS here – one in fallback operations to the other. The system of choice (the cheaper system in terms of airtime) is the ACeS (Asian Cellular Satellite) system and the mode of delivery is the Ericsson R190 ACeS handphone. The ACeS system can only be used in ASIA but it can access worldwide phone numbers. Cost of airtime is about US$0.80 per minute. The backup system is the Inmarsat (International Maritime Satellite) system and the mode of delivery is the Nera Worldphone. The Inmarsat system is worldwide in reach. Cost of airtime (commercial rate) is US$3.00 per minute, although the expedition has secured substantial discount of airtime from SINGTEL (Singapore Telecoms) – it is still very expensive, compared with the rates charged by ACeS. Both systems are essentially for voice mode, although both of them also offers data mode (only 2400 bits per second) which is what the expedition is using for the bulk of data transmission to / from Base Camp. Even though the Inmarsat system is expensive compared to ACeS, it makes up for it for its reliability under adverse conditions which the ACeS system will fail. Also, at this present moment, we have encountered operational problems with ACeS system that makes fallback to Inmarsat system mandatory at times.

Both the systems are attached to the Apple Powerbook in its own distinct ways. The ACeS system is hooked up to the Powerbook via its own extension cable (from the handphone) and plugs into a PSION Gold Card modem (ISDN & Cellular capable), which goes into the Apple’s PCMCIA’s slot. On the other hand, the Nera Worldphone is hooked into the Apple Powerbook’s USB port via a XIRCOM serial to USB convertor. The Nera Worldphone has its own 9 pins serial port.

To maintain two separate systems and keep both of them functional demand skills not commonly found in most people!

Because the satellite links are so slow (2400 bps – compared with 56,000 bps found in most homes in Singapore, and for the lucky few – 512,000 bps or even faster with CABLE or ADSL links), we have to restrict the kind of output we can receive and send. Anything that takes longer than 10 minutes to send per item is a definite NO NO.

The Nera Worldphone is hooked into the Apple Powerbook’s USB port via a XIRCOM serial to USB convertor. The Nera Worldphone has its own 9 pins serial port.

c) Maintain the hardware and software in good running order. We are operating at 5,200m, an altitude that is way above any manufacturer’s limits. 99% of all commercially obtained hardware limits the operating altitude to 10,000 feet or 2,500m. All the hardware we use at Base Camp is at least twice the height of the limits imposed by manufacturers. Also, the environment here is very dry and dusty. It is a tribute to the various manufacturers that the equipment we use here can work at all!

Even then, hardware will eventually fail if used in prolonged conditions that are prevalent in Base Camp. To prepare for that eventuality, we bring hardware diagnostic equipment (Fluke Digital Multimeters and Scopemeter) plus a complete set of electrical and electronic repair tools up here. Apple Singapore has also kindly supplied the expedition with 2 complete sets of spare parts for the Apple Powerbooks that we use here. I have also been trained to strip the Powerbook and replace every component that it uses. In fact, a hard-disk used by the Powerbook has been replaced in the field when it failed about 2 weeks ago.

For those non user replaceable items, we bring two units if the item is essential to the operations.

This of course implies the person doing this has to understand basic electrical and electronical parts, be able to diagnose and repair hardware faults in the field.

d) Write field reports (the ones that get sent to our folks back home) and send them back to Singapore via Satcoms links. Sometimes, the climbers are very far away (20km) from Base Camp and the only way to contact them is via walkie talkies. Unfortunately, our Motorola walkie talkies are out of range when attempting to bridge a gap 20km long. Under such circumstances, I have to wait till available information from 3rd parties become available or wait for the climbers to return before I can file the reports.

Those tasks represent the bulk of my daily routines.

Then there are the exciting ones, which happens once in a blue moon ….

Our solar charge controller refused to work about 1 week ago. Without a functional solar charge controller, I will be out of electrical power (an equivalent of a black out). I was in panic mode – it took me 20 minutes to diagnose the fault and 10 minutes to fix. Whew, what a relief when I got it working again.

Twice, I have been consulted by another expedition on their PC hardware faults – and had to replace one of their PC notebook’s harddisk (A DELL) using spares that was carried up by their trekking parties.

Ting Sern
Check out “One day in the life of Wong Ting Sern”!!!

Dear Friends,
I guess, it has been a while without hearing any news from me after my early return from my third acclimatization cycle. Just a quick update about myself. Yes, as mentioned in previous reports, I was suffering from some unknown virus infection that affected my breathing, especially above 6,500m where the wind is exceptionally strong and persistent. In addition to that, a very persistent bad cough has also been bothering me. These stuff really take time to heal. I’m not sure whether my health would be able to match any coming weather window to complete my acclimatization cycle. In any case, I’m trying my best to rest and recuperate. Despite feeling stronger, I also need to be healthy before I can even give it a shot! As far as I’m concern, I’m not too happy with my progress, but I really can’t do anything much with it. The feeling really sucks!

Although this wasn’t my first experience of altitude, but it is certainly my personal record in terms of sleeping for 6 nights at Advance Basecamp (6,550m). I have never been so immobilized before, playing the waiting game in Basecamp for so many days, waiting for my body to recover. Anyway, I realized that for the climb, you need to be in the right position (right camp), the right weather, in good health and be well acclimatized.

Today, the weather is pretty sunny, ideal for photo sessions. Dave took the opportunity to do some photo shooting. Rozani is getting better with his health. He might be ready to continue with his next acclimatization cycle maybe the day after tomorrow. Many of the sherpas feel that the weather for this season is pretty windy and unstable on the North side. Hopefully, the team will be able to make good progress with a better stretch of good weather?

Signing Off,
Beng Cheong

FLUKE

Fluke instruments allow the team to troubleshoot problems as and when they arise. The scopemeters and other meters are useful in narrowing down and diagnosing our laptop or other electronic equipment. See http://www.fluke.com

From left: Beng Cheong, David, Ting Sern, Gil and Roz. Note Ting Sern’s pleased look!! Read his report on using the Fluke DMM for some emergency repairs.

Basecamp
This is situated at the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier and 21km from Everest. Still, the enormous 3km north face of Everest dominates the skyline. Unlike from the south where most views are of only part of the mountain, here, you can get to see an almost unbroken view of the mountain. Famous features such as the Great Couloir, the Hornbein Couloir etc are all here. Essentially, what you have is a series of ice/snow gullies crisscrossing the monstrously large north face. Head on, it looks vertical but actually lies at a more gentle angle of about 50 degrees although certain rock bands do make the north side very precipitous. Occasionally, a flock of choughs (crow-like birds) will sweep past Basecamp. They can fly up to 9,000m!

At 5,400m, BC is a cold, dusty and windy place. A cacophony of morning coughing is common as are subzero temps once the sun goes down. Basically, except for when the wind isn’t blowing, its’ like living in a fridge (or a freezer). As May approaches, it is getting warmer but not very much so.

Life here is a routine of meals, resting between, writing emails, tending to minor repairs and so on. We power our laptops and other electronics with solar cells. The extremes at which our Apples and Canon equipment function is amazing – way beyond the manufacturers’ specs.

Meals prepared by our excellent sherpa staffed kitchen means meals comprise a combination (depending on the day) rice/oat porridge, pratas, chappattis, dhalbhat (rice and lentil soup), canned meats, occasional fresh meat and veggies. We supplement this with some Singapore goodies like fermented chilli tofu, ikan bilis, ‘bak kwa’ and so on. Some people can lose a lot of weight when climbing Everest, so the key thing when at basecamp is to try to recuperate, recover from infections, eat well, rest and plan the next move up the mountain. Right now, everyone is on antibiotics except for me, with the most common compliant being upper respiratory tract infections. I can’t describe how hard it is to sleep , breathe and climb when you are bunged up with streaming head colds and with snot of every colour emanating from your mucous membranes.

Three major differences between this expedition and the 1st one in 1998 are:
1. We’re climbing a much harder route.
2. This is a much smaller, international team and thus avoids much of the big team problems, diversity of opinions, egos and so on.
3. We’re working closely with an American team so the dynamics of this expedition are different from 1998 where we had a fully independent team. The Americans, led my my old friend Eric Simonson are on a search to find more evidence relating to the famous 1924 climb which may have placed climbers on the summit. The discovery of an elusive camera from that climb might prove conclusively one way or another what really happened. We’re just here to climb the mountain instead!

A few of the sherpas at basecamp are some old friends from past expeditions so it’s nice to see Kami Rita and Man Bahadur once more. If all goes well, we will be climbing with them again to the summit.

Life Above Basecamp
Here’s where the work begins. To even come to grips with the mountain, you have to trek to advance basecamp, 21 km away. This very long trudge and it is largely above 6,000m in altitude. This is very hard work and covers rugged terrain throughout. We normally spend 2 days to cover this distance.

At Advance Basecamp (ABC) you get to see the North Col, a snowy saddle (Col is an old Welsh word for pass/saddle) at 7,000m. This saddle forms the ridge that drops perpendicularly northwards from Everest’s Northface. To get to the summit, most summit attempts will place 2 more camps above the North Col before the summit. This gets us within striking distance (that is within one long day) to the top camp.

Living here gets much harder because of the cold and lack of oxygen. Worse is the constant wind that sweeps across the Northface, hammering anything (read: camps/climbers onthe north ridge) with its full force. Temperature, including the wind chill factor can drop to -25 at the Col. Food cooked has to take into account the limited resources to melt snow into water and thus comprises of various energey drink mixes, Brands Essence of Chicken, freeze dried meats and staple carbohydrates.

Regards
Dave

Everest North Col Breakthrough

Dear Friends,

A special hello to Muna, Steve Wong, the Simons, Fatoma, Anna and Daniel from Essex and Sue Fuller – all armchair fans of our adventures. Please surf to http://www.everest.org.sg for the pictures and updates.

Gil and I returned from the North Col yesterday. We had been away from the relative warmth and comforts of Basecamp for 9 days. As you might have read, the team left BC on April 18th for a key acclimatisation climb to the North Col.

This snowy saddle is central to all attempts on the summit. From Advance Base Camp (ABC) the idea is to make a carry to the Col (7,000m), followed by a subsequent attempt to sleep one or more nights on the Col. In high altitude climbing, it is critical to be able to gradually work our way up, climbing and sleeping at progressively steeper altitudes until the top camp – from where a summit climb can be made. This is all still some time ahead of us. The recent dramatic evacuation of a Kuwaiti climber to Kathmandu from cerebral edema underlines how serious the issues of acclimatisation (or lack of it thereof) can be.

After reaching ABC on the 19th, we decided on a rest day (the 20th). Rozani’s account of the carry to North Col can be found in the recent website reports. The 22nd was designated yet another rest day. However, by this stage, both Beng Cheong and Roz had had some upper respiratory tract infections which was not just bothersome, but necessitated a descent to Basecamp. While upsetting our schedule of acclimatisation, we still had bags of time in the greater scheme of things.

On the 23rd, Gil and I decided on making the big push to the North Col. The 500m high ice and snow face is threatened in a few places by overhanging ice but not significantly so. After an hour-long approach to the base of the 50 degree face, we began our ascent, using the previously laid fixed rope as security. While normally providing some exhilarating climbing up to see some great views, the climb was difficult for me, especially with my disabled right ankle. The sustained and constant rotation of the cramponed boot to enable as many of the steel spikes attached to the heavy plastic boot to make contact with the snow was a big challenge. We were also carrying a load up to the North Col which made the altitude a tough addition to our problems. Some steeper sections were about 70 degrees steep. Six hours later and an hour after Gil, I made it to the campsite, a collection of about 15 tents huddled under a protective snow wall. We slept fitfully – as always, when at a new altitude. For Gil, this represented a personal altitude record not just in terms of the highest point to which he had ever climbed but also in terms of sleeping altitude.

The following morning, I slowly led the way up the north ridge. None of the books or videos I’ve seen can really project how impressive the north face of Everest really is. Once I turned the small corner, the massive sweep of the north face plunged down into the Central Rongbuk Glacier. looking up, I saw the wavy snow ridge that snaked up to merge in to the north face at about 7,900m. A steady wind screeching across from far west began hammering us. Also to the west, we could look down into Nepal, the most prominent peak being the inverted ice cream cone of Pumori (7,123m).

I yelled to myself aloud, “I can’t believe it! I’m actually climbing the north ridge!” Suddenly, it seemed like a year of preparation and a decade of merely thinking about this climb had become reality in an instant.

Our plan as not to climb very high that day but merely to log in more altitude time. After a couple of hours, Gil’s hands were becoming very cold and we decided to turn back, picking our way back to the camp. As the sun set that evening, casting an alpenglow over the striated rocky features of the north face, I kept looking up and wondering how those brave 1920s explorers could have even contemplated tackling this enormous route. From an emotional point of view, should I not return to complete this climb, just the memories of that fantastic morning on the north ridge will be enough to sustain me.

The following morning, we descended in the teeth of a bad weather front. As I clipped into the first rope to descend by rappel, I looked up at the black clouds shredding across the top half of Everest. Breakfast or no, this was no place or time to hang about. We spent half the day carefully descending the face on empty stomachs and then walking back to ABC with an unpleasant wind pumping snow in our faces.

Climbing to the Col, sleeping at 7,000m, and climbing above it represents a significant step for our team in terms of the overall progress-in-stages needed to climb this mountain. Personally, I’m not going fast, but climbing to the Col resolved some questions I had about my ability (or disability) to handle this sort of climbing as well as an affirmation of my belief that you also have to stay healthy to climb this mountain.

Some critical issues remain. The long trek up to ABC and the heightened risk of getting more infections/bugs and so on make multiple trips to ABC inadvisable, in my opinion. However, if a summit window/opportunity only seems likely in late May, Gil and I will have to go up once more to ‘top up’ on our acclimatisation. Roz and Beng Cheong are now one acclimatisation ‘cycle’ behind us so will have to go back to ABC and onwards to North Col to get that valuable ‘high’ under their belts prior to any summit push. How the two halves of our team will coordinate a summit climb in May is a matter open to discussion. It seems that mid-May is a possible period for summitting.

In the meantime, rest and recuperation and the key words… “the summit can wait”.

Ciao,
Dave Lim

Ola,

Estamos de volta ao Campo Base, lar doce lar, a 5.400m de altitude. Foram 9 dias, e 9 noites, em altitudes superiores a 6.000m. Esta foi a nossa terceira subida para trabalhos de aclimatacao em grandes altitudes no proprio Everest. Atingimos o acampamento 4, ou Colo Norte, a 7.100m de altitude onde “dormimos” duas noites. Este local, Colo Norte, como o proprio nome diz, eh o colo entre o Everest e o Changtse, uma pequena plataforma de gelo de uns 50m, protegida por uma cornija de gelo dos fortisssimos ventos que assolam este flanco do Everest. Partimos dia 18 de abril rumo ao campo 1 a 6.000m; dia seguinte atingimos o campo 3, ABC, a 6.600m onde ficamos por 4 noites. No meio destes dias fizemos uma escalada parcial ao Colo Norte, para conhecer a parede de gelo de 500m de desnivel ate o Colo Norte – imagem colocada no site – Dia 23 David e eu partimos para o Colo Norte, Rozani e Beng Cheong tiveram que voltar ao Base devido a problemas de saude (respiratorios). Aqui uma pausa – uma das maiores dificuldades eh tentar manter a saude sem problemas, especialmente o sistema respiratorio. Por ex. agora, estou com forte dor de garganta e com o pulmao congestionado devido ao ar extremamente seco e gelado…e vento, muito vento. Fazemos de tudo para manter aquecida a regiao da garganta…mas nao dah mesmo. Espero que os dias que ficarmos aqui no Base melhorem a nossa situacao de saude. Bem, este nao eh um problema exclusivo nosso….o som que mais se escuta por aqui eh a tosse.

Voltando, David e eu escalamos a parede do Colo Norte….maravilhosa…puro gelo e um visual magnifico do Everest, do Glaciar de Rongbuck e a companhia de escaladores de diversas partes do mundo. Quando parei numa plataforma para descansar um senhor me ofereceu chah, eu aceitei, ele eh da Siberia. Ficamos duas noites acampados no Colo…nao foi muito facil dormir, comer (quase nao comemos) a 7.100m…e ainda faltam 1750m para o cume. O dia que descemos para o ABC tivemos muito azar pois pegamos um dos piores dias com ventos fortissimos e tempestade de neve. Isto aliado ao nosso desgaste fisico de tantos dias de esforco. Para se ter uma ideia, comparando com os Andes, “nestes 9 dias escalamos duas vezes o Aconcagua e dormimos duas noites no seu cume”. O acampamento 3, ou Acampamento Base Avancado, ABC, a 6.600m, eh uma pequena cidade de barracas. Ateh que temos algum conforto, uma pequenina barraca para dormir e uma barraca maior para refeicoes. Soh que a vida aqui eh ficar dentro das barracas devido ao frio e vento. Por ex. do lado de minha barraca, ah uns dez metros, em um expedicao internacional, tinha um casal de brasileiros (Paulo e Helena), que eu nem vi nem fiquei sabendo por lah; vim a saber somente quando voltava para cah e numa das paradas de descanso acabei encontrando o lider daquela expedicao. Paulo e Helena ainda estao por lah….toda a sorte e sucesso para eles. Bem, do que eu sei, da America do Sul tem duas expedicoes – uma Colombiana e outra da Venezuela…..com estes eu conversei.
Bem pessoal vou ficando por aqui. Jah fizemos 3 subidas e na proxima sera para ir ao cume, se Deus quiser. Vamos descansar aqui no Base ate recuperar a forca a saude e…engordar um pouco 🙂 acho que nestas perdemos alguns quilinhos. Torcam por nos, mas sobretudo rezem pela nossa seguranca.

Abracos,

Gil

Hola people!!!

Today we manage to erect up another comms tent for Ting Sern since the last one has the fly torn off by the strong winds up here. The good news is that Dave and Gill will be back from IC at Base Camp tomorrow. They are one cycle ahead of me and Beng Cheong for acclimatisation at the higher altitudes. Looks like they will be very hungry once they get back here, we usually are starve once we get back to Base Camp.

Meanwhile, we are getting better, the coughs are still there but its a little bit dry and also the head colds are getting better. Personally, I can’t wait to get back up the mountain, maybe its because the food’s too good in Base Camp.

Tomorrow we hope to hear Dave and Gill tell their story of their climb up the north col and how they feel up there. Beng Cheong and myself, we are still struggling to get healthy and hope that within the next 3 days, we will be ready for our next round of climb. I am looking forward to a good climb.

cheers

Mohd Rozani

Hi everyone,

The day before yesterday (Tuesday), one Kuwatii climber was carried down from ABC to BC by a chain of 12 porters and guides. He suffered from HACE (High Altitude Celebral Edemna – a problem of AMS). He was okay on the way up to I-C and was walking up with us from BC to I-C.

Yesterday, David & Gil came down from North Col to ABC. Today, they will be moving down from ABC to I-C. They should be down in BC by tomorrow afternoon.

Yesterday, both I and Beng Cheong with 2 other American climbers took a very long walk from BC to Rongbuk Monastery and back. Distance is about 8 miles (13 km). The Tibetian Monastery is very badly maintained and bear the ‘works’ of the Chinese Red Guards that destroyed nearly 2000 monasteries in Tibet alone during the Cultural Revolution of 1975. Compared with the Nepali (Tibetan) monasteries of Manang and other regions of Nepal, this monastery is a long way from its original beauty.

Along the route, we saw lots of Chinese ‘blasting’ works – using TNT – but without much warning, the workers will set the explosives off. The closest shave we had was about 50m away !!

Rozani is nursing his very bad cough which was acquired from ABC.

Ting Sern

APPLE

Once again, Apple Powerbooks go high! Since 1998, we’ve used Apple Powerbooks as the hub of our satellite communications and news broadcast devices. Operating well over their manufacturers’ specifications our G3 Powerbooks are working well at over 5000m and in temperatures which range from 15 C to – 15C. It’s also very windy and dusty at Everest Basecamp Rongbuk (Tibet) but this is a challenge we hope that the Apples wil rise up to.
See http://www.apple.com

Roz and Ting Sern hard at work at Rongbuk Base Camp’s communications tent. On their laps are Apple G3 powerbooks.

Hello everybody.

This is Roz. Just came back from Advance Base Camp, leaving Gill and Dave to go on to the North Col all the way. I’m having the worst cough in my life when we decide to let me go down back to Base Camp. Its quite sad for me not being able to join them up there. Beng Cheong is also back at Base Camp, also due to a bad cough.

Before this problem occured, we made an attempt to go up to the North Col on the 21st Apr. It was10am, we began moving up, but the wind was so strong that barely leaving camp, Beng Cheong retreated. He began having a blocked sinus and could barely breathe the words that he did not wish to continue.

“It’s only a gust, we can continue” I shouted to him but I think the wind was too strong. He couldn’t hear me. I didn’t see him after that. David was more relaxed, saying to me that we should go as far as possible before turning back. So the three of us continued moving slowly to the cramponing area, just before the glacier. All of us were very tired from breathing the thin air and carrying loads at this altitude. The wind was beating on us and we could see some other climbers turn back due to the wind.

As I reach the wall near the fixed ropes, I turn my head and could only see Gill behind me. I suspected that Dave has turned back too. I continued jumaring up the fixed rope and Gill followed behind. After reaching the middle of the wall up approximately 300 meters rope length Gill caught up with me. I was so tired and cold. I signaled to Gill that I’m out of breath and wished to turn back. The cold wind was chewing me big time!! By then I was almost blown off twice.

I started to cough at the base of the ice wall. And it continued until we reach ABC. The cold dry air was not helping. That night I could barely sleep. The cough continued through the whole night and on the next day I woke up late. Realised that Beng Cheong had left ABC. Planned to rest on the 22nd before going up to stay at The North Col but with the hacking cough, I had to go lower to recover. Sadly the next morning, on 23rd, I see my buddies go up, and me to go down back to Base Camp.

The good news is that Dave and Gill arrived at the North Col, 7200m to sleep after a good time climbing.They will stay there for 2 days before coming down to ABC then BC.

Over and out.

Mohd Rozani

TRANS-EQUATORIAL ENGINEERING

Many thanks for Mr CK Phua’s corporate contribution. An unconventional businessman and most UNtypical of Singaporean businessmen, CK Phua saw opportunities of this expedition in not only furthering SIngapore nation-building but also as a platform to show that disabled people aren’t necessarily unable to participate and compete in the most challenging activities.

From left, Beng Cheong, Roz, David,Ting Sern and Gil.

Hi everyone,

First a correction to yesterday’s report –

The team of climbers did NOT manage to climb to North Col. They only managed to climb half way up the ice wall. They might attempt it again today,

Beng Cheong has returned to Base Camp YESTERDAY afternoon – following some physical difficulties adjusting to the environment of Advance Base Camp.

According to radio broadcasts, Rozani is supposed to come down today to Base Camp too. This leaves only 2 climbers left in ABC (David & Gil).

Today, we woke up to very cloudy and windy weather (cold too).

Our communications tent (which houses all the hi-tech communications equipment) was ripped apart by very strong winds yesterday afternoon. Today, we had to spend the whole of the morning improvising a repair with an American, who was attached to Eric Simmerson’s group. We are now waiting for more manpower and better weather to erect the Mountain Hardware “Golf Ball” tent, which is bigger and hopefully, better equipped to withstand the winds of Rongbuk Base Camp.

Ting Sern

“Dick the tent repairman”.
He was the one who helped us patched the comms tent after it was ripped apart by strong winds yesterday.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES:

Thanks for SIA’s generous baggage allowance, the expedition has been able to transport all its mission-critical equipment (1000kgs!) without a hitch to (and later, from) Kathmandu in Nepal. See SIA’s neat website at http://www.singaporeair.com.sg to see why it’s often regarded as the world’s best airline.

Looking cool in their SIA caps, from left, Beng Cheong, Ting Sern, Gil and David; and front Roz

Report from EBC
Good morning everyone,

This is SUNDAY morning at Rongbuk Base Camp.

Weather – well, little change from the past 2 days – bright sunshine, very cold and windy, but no clouds. The team of 4 climbers managed to ferry up loads from ABC to North Col yesterday – but I have no idea how much load was carried up.

The team will rest at ABC today.

Beng Cheong, one of the 4 climbers will be returning to Base Camp today – no reason was given in the radio broadcast from ABC. He is expected to be in Base Camp by tomorrow late morning or early afternoon.

Ting Sern

Today’s sponsor focus features:

SINGAPORE SPORTS COUNCIL:

The main sports provider in Singapore, the SSC has not only given a cash contribution to the expedition but has also provided the team with advice re strength programmes as well as dietary/ nutritional advice prior to the expedition via their Sports Medicine Centre.
See advice, fitness tips etc on http://www.ssc.gov.sg

From top left, Beng Cheong, Roz and Ting Sern, bottom David and Gil